I started using Cosmedix for the first time a few years ago after getting my very first facial. Full disclosure, Cosmedix is one of the brands sold at Milk + Honey, a regional spa I’ve been going to since I moved to Austin. I only started seeing my soul sister and facial spirit animal Jessica about a year ago (she was the first person to tint my eyebrows) and I’ve been attached to her ever since. ATTACHED. I know about her whole life, her house-purchasing experience, her training, all of it.

I guess the main lesson here is while consistent use of certain skincare products is great, knowing why and how to use them probably matters more. Maybe Jessica is a great saleswoman (hey, she could be my career inspiration too! What can’t this woman do?), but she’s also a great educator. My facials and tinting sessions are my own type of Sunday ritual—she preaches the teachings of organic esthetics and I bask in the glory of it all. I confess to the aging concerns of my friend group, and I ask for forgiveness in my lack of enough SPF.

I digress. Jessica has taught me ingredient after ingredient—mainly due to my annoying level of interest in everything she puts on my face—of which I have found very helpful while deciding which products to purchase at the end of our sessions (not required). We discuss the importance of physical and chemical exfoliation one day, vitamin C the next. Her sermons give me the basis of my routines, like I’m absorbing some folklore that I’ll choose to pass on.

THE BASICS:

Cosmedix started about 20 years ago as a chirally-correct (never heard of that expression? Me neither—it means appropriate for the skin, molecularly) skincare brand. It’s actually owned by Astral Health & Beauty, which owns other brands such as PUR and Butter London. Cosmedix is cruelty-free, bans petro-derived ingredients, and focuses on creating products free of parabens, mineral oil, PEGs (polyethylene glycols), sodium lauryl sulfate, hydroquinone, glycolic acid, artificial dyes and artificial fragrances. They also preach that their products are designed for every skintone without harsh side effects (like bleaching).

For those of you curious about some of those ingredients, let me break it down (and I’ll likely continue breaking them down in each of the posts that contain them). Due to the lack of regulation in the cosmetics industry, the overall theme is its hard to know where your ingredients are actually coming from.

Parabens: preservatives that might be linked to cancer and reproductivity toxicity (endocrine disruptor)
Mineral oil: petroleum product, health issue is if the grade used is “contaminated.” Mineral oil does nothing for your skin as it contains no vitamins etc.
PEGs: petroleum-based compounds that can be contaminated with carcinogenic materials
Dyes/fragrance: any chemical combination that adds scent to products. The FDA doesn’t disclose cosmetics companies to disclose the specific chemicals in fragrance, meaning you don’t always know what you’re getting an associated risks (cancer, reproductive toxicity, allergies and sensitivities)
Sodium lauryl sulfate: typically used as a foaming agent, can be derived from petroleum
Hydroquinone: bleaching agent; if improperly formulated, can include toxins
Glycolic acid: unless you know where your glycolic acid is coming from, its source could be formaldehyde

THE PRODUCTS:

So what ingredients do these products have? Plant-based ingredients including tea tree oils, L-lactic acid, peptides, vitamins, fruit extracts and more.

THE CLEANSER:

My first experience with Cosmedix was using their Purity Solution nourishing deep cleansing oil. Cleansing oil—used on dry skin—blew my mind. This was my first taste into the true art of skincare. My dry skin loved the oil and stayed clean and supple for longer. When I ran out, I rebought once. Then I (ignorantly) feared its interaction with my Epiduo and never went back. Not to brag, but when I just looked at the Cosmedix Press section, I found that Victoria Beckham uses it too.

I did a little research and synthesized why oils are so great to cleanse with. They are lipophilic solvents, meaning they attract other oils (like the oils our skin produces, or oils in makeup) and dissolve them. Emulsify with water, and your skin remains incredibly clean—the cleansing oil keeps your skin moisturized, not stripped.

THE SCRUB:

A big part of why Cosmedix is so appealing is the ability to mix and build. Once I found my holy grail cleanser (LRP Hydrating Gentle Face Cleanser) I didn’t want to have to switch up again. Jessica introduced me to a dry detoxifying scrub (Purity Detox Scrub, to be exact), which you can add to any cleanser. The physical exfoliators (poppy, jojoba and date seeds) paired with salicylic acid leaves a very even and smooth complexion. It contains antioxidants, which defend skin from inflammation and damage to collagen. I use it every other day while I’m in the shower.

THE CRYSTALS

The splurging continued when I purchased the Pure C mixing crystals. I started mixing these with my Sunday Riley Luna Sleeping Night Oil, but since I’ve run out I’ve transitioned to a new Cosmedix serum (see below). Supposedly the vitamin C boosts results of serums and moisturizers when mixed. Vitamin C evens skin tone and texture, aids in cell turnover and improves skin’s elasticity. I can certainly tell my skin is brighter the next morning.

THE NEW SERUM

I went all out with a Cosmedix “spa exclusive” Elite product during my last facial, Pepoxide. It’s a new serum for me, which contains ingredients not found in my other products. Peptides! Proteins are crucial for the skin, especially when it comes to elasticity and firmness (collagen is made of protein). Peptides are essentially little pieces of protein that help your skin remain intact. I get another dose of antioxidants with this serum too. It also smells delightful and rooty.

Another new serum (not pictured)

I have also used the Simply Brilliant 24/7 brightening serum. This serum evens skintone and adds a glow, while also fighting small breakouts by utilizing salicylic and lactic acid. You can use this serum at day or night. I certainly see positive effects if I put it over a pimple, which is a bonus to generally radiant skin.

THE TAKEAWAY

I’m not immune to the fact that spas sell services and products. I used to be the first person to immediately turn down a new hair product after a cut. Skincare felt different to me—they are selling products they just used on your face so you can sustain positive and preventative habits. Their packaging is high-end itself, which makes it pretty impossible to recycle (tops don’t come off easily, etc.). I haven’t been repurchasing Cosmedix as I try out new, more cost-effective products myself. However, I still really appreciate the brand and think it’s a good option for high-end skincare. If you’re interested in trying, make sure you’re purchasing from an authorized dealer/distributor to avoid fake products.

Your skin is an investment, and therefore higher end skincare can be worth it (depending on your investment priorities, of course). Have you taken the plunge into any new products that might have changed your outlook on the spa space? Let’s chat!

Resources:

http://www.safecosmetics.org/get-the-facts/chemicals-of-concern/parabens/
http://www.safecosmetics.org/get-the-facts/chemicals-of-concern/fragrance/
https://www.bewell.com/blog/3-key-reasons-to-avoid-mineral-oil/
https://davidsuzuki.org/queen-of-green/dirty-dozen-peg-compounds-contaminants/
https://www.paulaschoice.com/expert-advice/skincare-advice/brown-spots-and-discolorations/hydroquinone-for-skin-lightening.html

COSMEDIX / A Review