Let's Talk About Masks

Charcoal, clay, acid peels, sheets. Masks (or masques) don’t quit these days! I didn’t start getting into masks until I realized they are a great “once in a while” self care tool. I wouldn’t rely on a mask to actually help my skin issues, but I enjoy (sometimes) the practice of applying a treatment. I wanted to dive into types of masks, why to use certain types of masks, what I think about certain types of masks, and most importantly the purpose of certain masks per skin type.

What are masks?

Yeah, this seems simple. Masks are skin treatments, left on for a limited time, to treat skin issues such as dryness, hyper-pigmentation and acne. Why masks are only left on for a bit and not everyday treatments are kind of a “chicken vs. egg” situation: they have more concentrated agents (or “performance ingredients”) than creams and lotions which shouldn’t be used frequently, but the less frequent nature allows for this level of intensity too. Most masks are meant to treat skin problems (even if the problems are common for most people) but many people use them as maintenance too.

Masks for different skin types

Not all masks are created equal when it comes to skin type. With the abundance of masks out there, it’s increasingly important to actually pay attention to what you’re trying to solve for. Here’s a breakdown (from my trusty esthetician textbook) about mask ingredients for various skin-type. If you have combination skin, keep in mind you can use (most) masks in concentrated areas only.

• Oily skin (i.e., skin that produces excess sebum): masks likely contain bentonite and kaolin (clays). These absorb excess oil (kaolin has less absorption properties than bentonite, so it’s better for normal skin). The ever-common Aztec Secret Indian Healing Clay is made of calcium bentonite clay from Death Valley. Most clay masks are mixed with water, but Aztec Secret recommends mixing the powder with equal parts raw apple cider vinegar which neutralizes the pH of the clay.

• Acne prone skin: while many acne sufferers use the Aztec Secret clay mask, it’s important for acne skin masks to contain ingredients like salicylic acid or benzoyl peroxide for their antiseptic and soothing properties. Acne doesn’t always equal overly oily skin. Salicylic acid penetrates the skin and unclogs pores as a beta-hydroxy acid.

• Dry skin: this skin needs emollients, conditioning agents and humectants (all ingredients that attract and retain moisture in the skin). It’s important to follow these masks with additional moisturizers and creams to lock in moisture.

A note on sheet masks. I can’t figure out their benefits aside from another way to get moisture onto your face more easily. They are easy to use, mess-free, and pretty cheap in most cases. They should be applied to clean skin, always, and the face shouldn’t be cleansed afterwards. The masks should be removed once it starts to feel dry, or else it will start to reabsorb the moisture that your skin just took in! Sheet masks aren’t going to cure your acne or fix your fine lines. However, The EveryGirl broke down ingredients per skin type for masks (which usually display these clearly):

• Oily skin and acne prone skin: green tea or charcoal

• Dry skin: ceramides (lipids), squalane, hylauronic acid, rice bran oil

• Dull skin, aging skin: vitamin c

How to use them, correctly

Masks should generally be used no more than 2 times a week given their intensity (and if you haven’t realized it already, the more is not the merrier when it comes to some skincare ingredients). I use a glass bowl with a paintbrush to mix my masks, though most of what I use are pre-mixed creams.

Most masks include wait time and instructions on their packaging, which should be tailored to your own skin. Remember that patch testing can be very important for more intense masks. Just because you want “quicker” results doesn’t mean you should leave them on for longer. This can cause sustained redness and irritation, especially for those like the Aztec Secret.

Non-peel masks should be removed with warm water and a washcloth. Be sure you allocate washcloths you aren’t afraid to stain; masks can get very messy.

Masks I’ve used

Clay 1: I’ve used the Aztec Secret Indian Healing Clay mask a few times and did see an immediate breakout settle down after a few uses. I mixed it in my glass bowl (never use it with metal, as that supposedly interferes with the effectiveness of the clay). I left it on for about 15 minutes. However, it’s definitely messy which has kept me from using it for a while. It can take some effort to remove. To use it again, I’d keep it very limited to my most acne-prone spots over using it throughout my face.

Clay 2: I received samples of the Aesop Chamomile Concentrate Anti-Blemish Maque when I was in LA and decided it’s my favorite clay mask at this point. It feels gentle and my skin still feels smooth when I wake up the next morning. It’s slightly messy, but I feel as though I can use a much thinner layer with this one. Also, Chamomile is so calming and great to the skin which I love.

Acid: I started using the Salicylic Acid 2% Masque from The Ordinary when I was first getting into masks. I’d describe this as the “all-in-one” for acne and oily skin, as it not only contains salicylic acid (duh) but also clays and squalane. I like this mask a lot, and should return to it more than I have. However, it’s black and also a bit messy. You aren’t supposed to apply it to wet skin, and I’m still researching why that might be emphasized to that extent.

Blue Tansy/Willow Bark: I’ve talked about the Blue Tansy Mask from Herbivore before and I certainly still enjoy it as a fruit enzyme mask to assist with breakouts. It soothes my skin, reduces redness and clarifies. Luckily, the blue tansy mask is very easy to remove and clean up. Some people really dislike the smell, but I personally like it. It smells a little herby, a little floral, but overall pretty clean. It’s a staple for me now.

Moisturizing: When my skin is damaged or dry, I use the La Roche Posay Hydraphase Intense Masque which just feels like an intensive moisturizer you have to remove. It contains hyaluronic acid for sensitive and dry skin, and can even be left on (you only really need to remove “excess” according to the LRP website). While this is non-comedogenic, I wouldn’t use it too often in the event you notice any clogging.

The Takeaway

Masks are a great way to supplement a steady skincare routine based on your skin’s needs. Don’t feel the need to give into the hype of all of the masks out there, as some can be expensive and chances are they’ll end up sitting in your bathroom over getting any steady usage.

Do your research before purchasing masks given their more intensive properties that I’ve laid out. If a mask is too much for your skin, give it to a friend. Most important, determine your skin type before you start playing with more intense products (either through online resources, an esthetician or a dermatologist).

Happy Masking!